Q: Hey Brad, where’s the best place to find great oysters? And is it safe to eat oysters year round?
A: There’s an old wives’ tale that says you shouldn’t eat oysters in months without Rs, i.e, the summertime. While that’s not exactly true, it’s a good rule of thumb when eating at restaurants that might not specialize in oysters or where you think the quality might be questionable. The idea behind that rule has to do with water temperatures. You don’t want to eat oysters from warm water, which can be dangerous. However, California waters can still be very cold in summer, while Gulf Coast waters can still be warm in winter. The best rule of thumb is to just stick with oysters from cold waters, or restaurants that specialize in oysters/seafood.
That said, if all you want are a couple of oysters before a meal, restaurants like Gem in Fountain Valley (10836 Warner Ave., 714-516-8121, gemdining.com) or Watermarc in Laguna Beach (448 S. Coast Highway, 949-376-6272, watermarcrestaurant.com) both offer great oysters with creative granitas. I love starting a meal like that.
On the other hand, if you’re looking to make an entire feast of it, my favorite place to go overboard is Water Grill in Costa Mesa (3300 Bristol St.,949-208-7060, watergrill.com). The oysters here are pristinely fresh, and they usually have at least a dozen varieties, which right now include Riptides and Spindrifts from Massachusetts, Naked Cowboys from Long Island, Chincoteagues and Mystics from Maryland, plus Eld Inlets and Henderson Bays from Washington and Kumamotos from California’s Humboldt Bay. If that sounds like I’m speaking gibberish, sit at the oyster bar and let their knowledgeable shuckers walk you through the nuances. Water Grill also sources some of the best crabs and lobsters available, so you could also build a seafood tower beyond just the oysters.
My second choice is Shuck Oyster Bar (3313 Hyland Ave., Costa Mesa, 949-420-0478, shuckoysterbar.com). I’ve always found the oysters here to be extremely fresh and the bartenders savvy. They might actually stock the largest variety of any restaurant in the county. They source oysters from 60 different farms on both coasts. And for what it’s worth, the kitchen also makes a great grilled cheese sandwich.
Additionally you’ll find excellent oysters at Off the Hook (11061 Los Alamitos Blvd., Los Alamitos, 562-330-1310, offthehookatfishco.net), which is the next-gen extension of The Original Fish Company. Their choices are limited but always impeccably fresh.
Got a burning question? Ask away. I might not respond personally, but you could see my answer here in the coming weeks instead.